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Guillotines by Dreadwilliam. Famous customer service worldwide. Member Guillotine Builder's Guild.

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Updated 11/20/17.

1. My latest creation(s)

2. Model guillotines for sale

3. World's smallest working guillotine!

4. DIY miniature model guillotine

5. DIY Full sized prop guillotine

6. The world's best guillotine models, period!

My latest creation(s).

Projects in Progress and Past Objects at:   

15" Oak masterpiece from memory of Fabricus plans

To see detailed photos of this machine, click here.

This is the most historically accurate small model to date. It was built of solid oak by memory from accurate plans purchased from Jorn Fabricus.

All the actions on this model are almost luxurious in their ease of operation. All metal is steel.

Orders will go for $300USD. Shipping is extra. Please email at the address below to order.

Built from antique recycled oak beams, steel, or aluminium, if you prefer.

A Cinema Sensation!

To see detailed photos of this project, see the short film, The Small Tent.

Don't run out to the dvd store as the filming has not even begun. This director is known on the web and has a following large enough to employ actual know talents in the casts of characters.

This one was made in a kit so that it could go cross country without costing double what the client paid. A box of tightly packed parts is smaller by far than a finished guillotine which is about 80% air.

The only clue to the story you get is that a human hand can fit snugly into the machine's business area.

26 1/2" Oak masterpiece from Fabricus plans

To see detailed photos of this machine, click here.

This is the most historically accurate model to date. It was built of solid oak from accurate plans purchased from Jorn Fabricus. Anyone with good woodworking skills reading this page should investigate and invest in a set of these plans.

All the actions on this model are almost luxurious in their ease of operation. I never quite understood from paintings and engravings, exactly how the blade release mechanisms worked. The plans showed me the parts, but still no clear explanation as to how they work together.

A friend who used the same plans to build a full scale example explained it to me like an engineer, and like so many gadgets, it was so simple I could not see it at first. Well I saw it and now you can have it. By the way, the metal work is very pretty if I do say so myself.

It will go on all future models but this one was first. I am keeping this one as a source of pride. Orders will go for $1000USD. Shipping is extra. Please email at the address below to order or to see if it is still available at this price.

Built from antique recycled oak beams, accurately scaled hemp rope, iron, steel, and aluminum, or aluminium, if you prefer. The mouton has an aluminum weight since lead scares me.


1790s Style Model Guillotines For Sale

Custom orders can be worked out.


From 8-60" in height. My line-up of pre 1800s models. These are most recognizable by their "slim" design which made it slightly less stable but much more portable. As it became an industry unto itself, more permanent machines, complete with attachments would be designed.


1860s Style Model Guillotines For Sale


More permanent machines were built, due to increased popularity, that were sturdier and more stable during the mid 1800s. The pinnacle of efficiency was achieved in 1860.

Easily identifyable by the cross brace on the foundation with it's diagonal side struts, these can be made for you from precious tropical hardwoods, with less expensive versions available in local hardwoods.


World's Smallest Working Guillotine


To see a larger and nicer image, click here. To see what it does, click here.Working and marginally accurate tiny guillotine constructed of teak. A week before this blogging I built what I then believed to be the smallest guillotine ever made, and was much satisfied. As the days went by it began to look huge and so...I have a feeling some french aristocrat had a brass and gold miniature made by a master goldsmith that is probably much smaller than this one but it is not on the net, and so fooey.

This model is 5 x 1.5cm x 6.5cm tall.(2 x 5/8 x 2.5 inches) Includes a fully articulate movable table, a simple mechanical release mechanism, and 4mm blade. All jointery is by luck and patience.

This model is unavailable at this time as they are fairly delicate, and I cannot guarantee a safe delivery. I suggest you go down to the next paragraph, learn the steps, make a few of your own and then try to break my record.


Build Your Own Miniature Working Guillotine


Click image anytime to increase detail.

Build Your Own Miniature Working Guillotine

1. Using as much precision as possible in your particular situation, lay out 2' worth of .25"x.25" stock. I prefer maple, but any hardwood will do as long as it is well seasoned.

2. Using a square, layout your main framing. This will vary depending on just how miniature you wish to build. I built mine 4" long for rails, and 4" for the front spreader and 1.5" for the rear.

3. Square parts up using a reliable square finishing machine, I use a disc sander, but a belt sander clamped upside down to the workbench will do but will require extra skill and fingertip skin.

4. Using the square, mock up the frame and draw lines for joint cutting.

5. Using a bandsaw or a small framebacked saw, cut away the waste, remembering always to cut along the inside of the lines. Clean the joints up with a small file until they fit perfectly. Glue and treenail frame.

6. Cut four small uprights to hold the tabletop and, using a square, draw layout lines.

7. Using the lines as guides, glue and treenail to frame.

8. Cut two 6" main uprights from the .25x.25 stock and clamp them along their length. Using a large framebacked rip-saw, dig the blade channels about .125" deep.

9. Cut two pieces of stock to act as spreaders between the uprights. Using the square, glue and treenail bottom spreader but not the top one. Glue it instead to another piece of stock slightly longer than the frame will be wide. Treenail, but DO NOT glue the top assembly to the frame, parallel to the uprights. This allows the top to be removed.

10. Using an adjustable square, set to 30 degrees, layout the ends of four small and two long support members. Layout the opposite ends to 60 degrees. If you did it correctly, the results will be obvious. Glue and treenail all support members.

11. Construct the tabletop sub floor to fit over the frame. 12. Use a small dowel for the rear spreader. This will be the axis the tabletop will roll along. Get it as close to the rear of the assembly as possible.

13. Cut a piece of stock to .125"x1"x9" long. From this, cut a tabletop and foot rest. Glue and treenail. When dry, trim to fit tabletop to sub floor.

14. From same stock, cut two small pieces and construct at 90 degrees in a way so that when attached to the bottom of the tabletop, they will retain the tabletop to the dowel at the rear of the sub floor.

15. Try to sand out only as much play as you need for it to slide easily.

16. Using your blade guide dimensions, layout a blade and two block halves. After cutting, trim the blade to slide effortlessly along the guides before gluing and treenailing the block halves to it. Note: the blade will slide better when the blade frame top is installed.

17. Install a very slim dowel to the top of the blade assembly and then drill a hole straight into it about .125". Cut a length of appropriate string or thread and, using tiny wedges, force one end permanently into the hole. Glue the wedges in place.

18. Construct head restraint upper and lower using the sandwich method and before drilling hole make certain that assembly will slide down blade guide. Bore head hole and carefully cut in two and sand. Glue and treenail bottom half but allow top half,(shown) to slide. Adjust space between halves so that the blade may pass easily between front and rear layers.

19. This is the blade release lever and is the most complex piece in this puzzle. The lever should be constructed as slim as possible for good looks, but must include a yoke at one end so an axle can spin when attached to it. Be careful when choosing the woodgrain for this part unless you are using oak yew or ash. Drill the hole oversized in respect to the dowel so that it spins easily. Drill a small hole into the side of the dowel and insert the pin, another dowel, in this case a long treenail into the hole so it resembles the photo. DO NOT trim pin length at this time. Also, bore a blade raising hole into the center of the blade frame top from the top. A blade guide will also be needed as shown glued and treenailed next to the hole. This helps the string to stay in line instead of tangling.

20. Construct a lever bearing from three pieces of the .125 stock, glue, treenail and trim to one upright.

21. Drill a hole into the blade guide assembly top through the top of the upright that the bearing is mounted to so that the blade release lever pin may be inserted and removed with ease.

22. Line lever up with the center of the bearing and drill a hole for the metal pin. The size of this particular part and the stresses it goes through demands it be made of metal.

23. Remove lever assembly and raise the blade all the way up so the dowel at the top of the blade is deep in the blade frame top. Redrill the hole through the blade frame top this time passing into the blade dowel. This is where the pin will engage the blade assembly.

24. Put it all together and condemn yourself a victim. Easy, right?



Build a Full Sized Stage Guillotine no longer exists. The photo images of all the steps have dissappeared from every source they may have been in!

I apologize for the hopes I may have dashed.

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